Skip to main content

A Walk from East to West from Moriani to Cargese.


The Mare a Mare Nord route.
Entre mer et montagne.



When arriving in Nice I get drawn to the view over the city from high point above the harbour.... La colline de Chateau.
A fine area to visit when waiting for the afternoon ferry to Bastia.  Space away from the crowds and with a fine waterfall probably engineered.
The jumble of a Mediterranean town.

Prior to making it to Moriani for the start of this walk we, having arrived in Calvi, decided to walk the first few stages of the GR20 via the camping at the refuges of  d'Ortu di u Piobbu, Carozzu and at  Haut Asco. Then after a visit to Monti Cintu we made our way down  and out to Bastia by train .  Then bus down the East Coast to Moriani for the start of the walk.

Leaving the East coast above Moriani where we camped for the night after taking the bus from Bastia.
Looking down upon San Nicolao.
On the days when it is clear for viewing out eastwards  into the Tyrrhenienne sea there are a few island gems to be seen.  Most folks will  know of the island of Monti Cristo from the Dumas novel and also the film with Depardieu in the  role of the Count.  Nowadays it is a nature reserve. Occasionally through the east coast fog I have caught a glimpse of the profile of the island of Elbe where Napoleon Bonaparte was imprisoned.  Today I am aware that the island is an upmarket holiday destination accessed from Italy.





The porks are after us again.

At first I thought that this was fire damage but as I found out later the culprit was a virus that attacks the chestnut trees.  In Corsica the chestnuts are made into flour used in many dishes and of course there is the island's celebrated beer made from the chestnuts.


The hostel at Penti that was all closed up.  Admittedly we were early in the season and there were not many folks travelling the route so you cannot expect the building to be manned at all times....it just isn't practicable to do so. The tent could be situated out of site on grass to the rear of the building.  If only the hourdes of folks who visit the GR20  would spread themselves out a bit and bring some trade into the other trails on the island.
Such is the power of the advertising that the 'big trail' gets throughout the world.

In Forci there appeared to be one resident.  I guess the other well looked after houses in the hamlet belong to folks maybe working in France.

At Val d'Alesani an enterprising gentleman uses the basement of his garage to accommodate walkers.  There is also a Gite de France in the village for travellers to stay.

From Sermano there was the prospect of the mountains to come after Corte.

Sant Alisio chapel an alternative way to reach the San Martino road crossing.  

Big goat herds encountered before reaching Corte.

Cortes fine Citadel.
The ancient capital of the Island and where for a few years Pascal Paoli was leader of an independent Corsica having wrestled the power from the Genoese.  It was short lived independence when the French took control after a few years.
Paoli was visited by James Boswell the Scottish lawyer and biographer of Samuel Johnson in 1765. Apart from championing the cause of independence 'An Account of Corsica' was an outcome of his visit.
Paoli was exiled to London and I think that he is buried in the Westminster Abbey.
Corte is an interesting place to visit.

Figs growing in the area of the camping of Chez Bartho.

The old mule track along the Tavignano gorge...there had been a rock-fall that took away a short section of the trail.  There was a way  through above the damaged area.  I have heard that the section had been repaired and things are back to normal here. 

Walkers on the trail.


Breakfast at Sega refuge.

Our camp close to the refuge.

The unwelcome nest of Chenille Processionaire grubs that leave the nest as a linked together chain of  caterpillar things to continue the species.  These guys have caused havoc amongst the pinewoods in Europe.

Looking out to the South side of Monti Cintu. Both Calacuccia and Albertacce lie below.

The guardian of the Col de Verghio.

The sleepy restaurant at Marignana.

Bergerie Guard dog at Santa Lucia.

E Case refuge.

Near to E Case many flowers.
E Case wee lantern flower.

Cargese comes into view.  Camping site is 4 kls. from the village.



Found close to E Case.

Nearer to the Coast
Close to the beach

We came across this little dog at the camp site on a cycle tour around the island with his keepers.

To add to the awkwardness of travel on the.island.  We boarded a bus at the campsite entrance bound for Calvi but the bus stopped at Porto with no further link to Calvi until around midday on the following day. So a camp in Porto was needed. Being not too pressed for time at the Calvi end we had some time to spent in the village. 
I enjoyed the time spent there with plenty to see etc.

From the camping site we were rewarded with an evening view of Capu d'Ortu above Porto.


Comments

Post a Comment

Popular posts from this blog

The GR20 a walk through the mountains of Corsica.

Several of our trips to Corse began with a flight into Nice airport. Before reaching the port for a ferry to Bastia or on one occasion to Calvi we trended towards the wee hill with the outlook over the city. On other occasions a flight into Bastia Poretta was the choice of to reach the island.  The trail takes the walker from Calenzana down to Conca following ancient paths and mule tracks used in the past to move animals to the higher areas in the summer season.  This practice of transhumance carried out on many parts of the route is still practiced today.  It is not unusual to find goats, pigs, sheep and cattle along the trail especially near to the several bergeries (small high level stock farms) encountered during the walk. The trail was initiated by Michel Fabrickant a civil servant and mountaineer who worked on the Island and who took onboard  the itineraires Corse of Jean Loiseau and the idea of Guy Degas of a route from Calvi to Port...
2 comments
Read more

Glen Tromie, the Gravel Track, the Corbett, and Glen Feshie.

 We began this day out from the Wildlife Park with just a short distance into Kingussie the only part of the journey that was on a road with traffic.  I don't think that bikes and traffic mix well on a busy road. However we survived the ride during the few kilometres into the village.  We were happy to reach the Speyside Way trail and follow this off-road to reach Tromie Bridge and then follow the Glen track until we left it to gain the Gravel Trail. Some old farm buildings that have become Holiday accommodation. A fine wee cottage above Lynaberack Lodge. Bhran Cottage. A look down on the way to the upper part of the Tromie. Now on the gravel making use of the surface to reach the higher ground. The surface has been established for vehicles to reach the area when the planting of millions of trees happens. I guess that fences will come soon? However the track is very well made with loads of drainage systems and the edges have been re-established with the vegetation. A very...
Post a Comment
Read more

A walk through the Vanoise ..Landry to Modane on the GR55..

We arrived on an afternoon train to Landry in wet weather. All a bit gloomy when we sought out a place to pitch our tent and where the soggy ground conditions told us that a fair amount of rain had fallen recently. We were about to follow the GR55 route that can be followed through to Modane and where there would be trains coming through the tunnel from Italy.....ideal for us to get back to Geneva for our return on the Easy Jet service to Edinburgh.  The GR55 can be used as a more direct route as part of the GR5 trail that links Lac Leman to the Mediterranean. The following morning with rain still falling we  decided to head up to a camping site Le Lanchettes, close to the Refuge at Rosuel, and wait for a change in the conditions. After a couple of days the clouds parted and revealed the white covering of the terrain to where we would be walking.                                  ...
Post a Comment
Read more